Monday, June 1, 2009

Letter to Mama Testa Taqueria




Cesar Gonzalez
Owner
Mama Testa Taqueria
1417 A University Avenue
San Diego, California 92103
Phone: (619) 298-8226

Dear Mr. Gonzalez:

You can’t throw a stone in San Diego without hitting a taco shop. Mama Testa is not a taco shop. It is a taqueria, a Mexican interpretation of the various regional foods from Mexico. It bears no resemblance to what Southern Californians have come to know as “Baja style” food. The first thing we noticed when we walked in was the salsa bar, with at least nine different salsas, almost none of which looked familiar. All of the salsas have a unique, fresh flavor and allow the eater to customize each bite, depending on what salsa is used. They have ranged from fruity to smoky to earthy to tangy. The variety of your traditional regional salsas gives a unique perspective to your food.

Of your Mama Blanditos (soft tacos), we’ve liked the Atasco (three soft corn tortillas filled with homemade chorizo, cilantro, raw white onion and red tomatillo salsa) and the Asi Yasado (three soft corn tortillas filled with grilled chicken, cilantro, raw white onion and green tomatillo salsa). The homemade chorizo in the Atasco was finely chopped and tasted just like we would expect a good Mexican chorizo to taste: slightly spicy with a smoky saltiness. The natural fat that rendered from the sausage was absorbed by the soft corn tortillas and the chopped onion and cilantro gave the tacos a bright flavor that balanced the heavy chorizo. The grilled chicken in the Asi Yasado was chopped yet still juicy and a perfect, simple meat with which to try a variety of salsas.

Of your Mama Duros (hard tacos), we’ve liked the Guaca Tacos (three deep fried corn tortillas filled with avocado, topped with lettuce, sour cream and queso fresco and served with refried beans) and the Empapados (three corn tortillas filled with mashed potatoes, topped with lettuce, sour cream and queso fresco and served with refried beans). The guacamole in the Guaca Tacos was creamy and rich and the crunch of the lettuce and taco shell was everything we would want in a crunchy taco. The Empapados were savory and comforting, not like any other taco we’ve had.

The Muchos Machos (two corn tortillas filled with sliced poblano chiles sautéed with onions and sour cream, served with rice and refried beans) were also good. The heat from the peppers and the sweetness from the onions married beautifully and the sour cream made the taco more decadent while balancing the heat from the chiles. The Luchador ring napkin holders on your tables and tongue-in-cheek names of your dishes show Mama Testa doesn’t take itself too seriously. We are happy that you are showing your customers that Mexico is a big country with many different styles of food that all taste great served in a fresh corn tortilla.

Yours Very Truly,

San Diego Restaurant Review


No comments: