Tuesday, June 9, 2009

Letter to Big Kitchen Cafe


Judy “The Beauty” Forman
Owner
Big Kitchen Cafe
3003 Grape Street
San Diego, California 92102
(619) 234-5789

Dear Judy:

Big Kitchen is our favorite neighborhood place to eat, even though it’s not in our neighborhood. There is a homey feeling when we visit, like going to see an aunt with too many pictures of her nieces and nephews and with good food coming out of her kitchen. There is always plenty to read and look at on the walls - pictures of famous and not so famous customers, letters from well wishers, rave reviews and awards and even political bumper stickers; no need to bring a newspaper.

Your food transcends its basic ingredients with the care and attention to detail that are obvious in even your simplest dishes. Having breakfast at Big Kitchen on the weekends can be quite a wait, which is usually the sign of a good restaurant, although you make your customers feel as comfortable as possible by offering shaded seating and hot coffee (Kona) during the wait. We love coming during the week, though, because we can usually sit down right away.

If for no other reason, every San Diegan should come to Big Kitchen for the Biscuits and Gravy, which are easily the best we’ve had. That is saying a lot, considering one of us is from the Midwest. The biscuits are always light and fluffy and the gravy is spicy, savory, creamy and peppery. The sausage is heavily spiced, not the run of the mill breakfast sausage most diners serve, which gives the gravy a unique flavor with hints of (we think) cumin and chile powder. Even our vegetarian friends can enjoy biscuits and vegetable gravy, a rare option.

Some of our breakfast favorites are the Golden Hill Favorite (spinach, egg and cheese scramble), the Corned Beef Hash and the Huevos Rancheros. Your home fries make each plate special. The potatoes seem more like they have been roasted, perfectly tender on the inside with a crispy exterior. The abundance of fresh herbs and seasoning ensures that every bite is loaded with flavor. Even the whole wheat toast is wonderful. The thick slices of nutty bread taste great covered with your berry preserves. Although most people think of Big Kitchen as a breakfast restaurant, your daily lunch specials ($7.50) prove that it’s just a great place to eat.

Every good cook knows that the kitchen is the heart of a home and Big Kitchen is the heart of this community. You treat everybody like a part of your family, bringing big plates of comforting food made with love.

Yours Very Truly,

San Diego Restaurant Review

Monday, June 1, 2009

Letter to Mama Testa Taqueria




Cesar Gonzalez
Owner
Mama Testa Taqueria
1417 A University Avenue
San Diego, California 92103
Phone: (619) 298-8226

Dear Mr. Gonzalez:

You can’t throw a stone in San Diego without hitting a taco shop. Mama Testa is not a taco shop. It is a taqueria, a Mexican interpretation of the various regional foods from Mexico. It bears no resemblance to what Southern Californians have come to know as “Baja style” food. The first thing we noticed when we walked in was the salsa bar, with at least nine different salsas, almost none of which looked familiar. All of the salsas have a unique, fresh flavor and allow the eater to customize each bite, depending on what salsa is used. They have ranged from fruity to smoky to earthy to tangy. The variety of your traditional regional salsas gives a unique perspective to your food.

Of your Mama Blanditos (soft tacos), we’ve liked the Atasco (three soft corn tortillas filled with homemade chorizo, cilantro, raw white onion and red tomatillo salsa) and the Asi Yasado (three soft corn tortillas filled with grilled chicken, cilantro, raw white onion and green tomatillo salsa). The homemade chorizo in the Atasco was finely chopped and tasted just like we would expect a good Mexican chorizo to taste: slightly spicy with a smoky saltiness. The natural fat that rendered from the sausage was absorbed by the soft corn tortillas and the chopped onion and cilantro gave the tacos a bright flavor that balanced the heavy chorizo. The grilled chicken in the Asi Yasado was chopped yet still juicy and a perfect, simple meat with which to try a variety of salsas.

Of your Mama Duros (hard tacos), we’ve liked the Guaca Tacos (three deep fried corn tortillas filled with avocado, topped with lettuce, sour cream and queso fresco and served with refried beans) and the Empapados (three corn tortillas filled with mashed potatoes, topped with lettuce, sour cream and queso fresco and served with refried beans). The guacamole in the Guaca Tacos was creamy and rich and the crunch of the lettuce and taco shell was everything we would want in a crunchy taco. The Empapados were savory and comforting, not like any other taco we’ve had.

The Muchos Machos (two corn tortillas filled with sliced poblano chiles sautéed with onions and sour cream, served with rice and refried beans) were also good. The heat from the peppers and the sweetness from the onions married beautifully and the sour cream made the taco more decadent while balancing the heat from the chiles. The Luchador ring napkin holders on your tables and tongue-in-cheek names of your dishes show Mama Testa doesn’t take itself too seriously. We are happy that you are showing your customers that Mexico is a big country with many different styles of food that all taste great served in a fresh corn tortilla.

Yours Very Truly,

San Diego Restaurant Review