Monday, July 27, 2009

Update: Change of ownership of, formerly, Frankie the Bull's BBQ

Readers:

We were contacted by the owner of Bull's Smokin' BBQ (formerly Frankie the Bull's BBQ), who informed us that Frank Terzoli is no longer associated with the restaurant. The current owner, Mr. Joey Hoisescu, also advised us of other changes that have been made to the restaurant. With his permission, here is a copy of his correspondence to us dated 07-25-09:

"I would like to thank you for your review of our restaurant. It means a lot to hear positive feedback from people who really know their food. Although my opinion on some things may differ from yours, I am open to both positive and negative feedback. I believe that it takes many points of view to create something spectacular. I also wanted to inform you of the recent ownership change. Frank Terzoli is no longer affiliated with this restaurant. In lieu of the change in ownership, the name has been changed to Bull's Smokin' BBQ. The kitchen staff has not changed but the recipes have been substantially improved. We believe that the food is better than ever before. I encourage you to come in and try the new bread as well as the new gumbo and, like you said in the letter, the ribs and salmon. Thank you again."


We would also like to address a question from one of our readers regarding Bull's Smokin' BBQ's cooking methods. We relayed the question to Mr. Hoisescu, who responded that they smoke everything using a cookshack smoker, with a capacity of approximately 300 lbs. For all smoking, they use applewood and mesquite. Mr. Hoisescu states that those familiar with each flavor should be able to taste both in all of their smoked menu items.

Friday, July 24, 2009

Letter to Frankie the Bull's BBQ


Frank Terzoli
Frankie the Bull’s BBQ
1127 West Morena Boulevard
San Diego, California 92110
(619) 276-2855

Dear Mr. Terzoli:

We are barbecue lovers, especially chopped brisket. San Diego is a tough town for barbecue lovers and an even tougher town for people who like brisket, so we were thrilled when we found a new local barbecue joint that actually serves it. We ordered the Smoked Beef Brisket Sandwich, Smoked Pulled Pork Sandwich [sandwiches came with Almond Cole Slaw and fries], an Onion Ring Brick and your Bull’s Beans. The eagerly anticipated brisket was mostly tender and had a good smokiness throughout. However, we had a number of bites that included large chunks of fat as well as some meat and bark pieces that were dry. We have a strong preference for Texas-style chopped, dry-rubbed brisket with no sauce so we would have preferred no sauce on our sandwich, but that is a barbecue style point. Overall, the flavor of the brisket was good but we would have preferred a hamburger bun to the hoagie roll, because the roll was just too much bread.

The Pulled Pork Sandwich was better than the brisket. All of the pork was tender and juicy and better befitted the sparingly applied sauce. Again, there was too much bread with the hoagie roll. The big mouthfuls of bread detracted from the well-prepared meat. The thick fries were crispy and well-seasoned. The creamy Cole Slaw was a standard barbecue side, though the sugared almonds in the slaw were too sweet and overpowered the other flavors. The Bull’s Beans were smoky and savory and like no barbecued beans we’ve had. They didn’t have the tang that most barbecued beans have and were more like eating chili because of the large chunks of beef. Though we liked the idea of including beef in the beans, some of the beef was dry. We enjoyed the flavor overall, although, like your barbecue sauce, we thought the beans could use some heat [another style point]. The Onion Ring Brick was a pleasant surprise. The huge pile of extremely thin, long strands of battered onions was crispy, light and flavorful with natural sweetness from the onions.

No one could complain that your portions are small and our meal was very reasonably priced, especially since our sandwiches came with large portions of French Fries and Cole Slaw [Pulled Pork Sandwich - $7.95; Beef Brisket Sandwich - $8.95]. We will be back to try the ribs and smoked salmon.

Yours Very Truly,

San Diego Restaurant Review

Tuesday, June 9, 2009

Letter to Big Kitchen Cafe


Judy “The Beauty” Forman
Owner
Big Kitchen Cafe
3003 Grape Street
San Diego, California 92102
(619) 234-5789

Dear Judy:

Big Kitchen is our favorite neighborhood place to eat, even though it’s not in our neighborhood. There is a homey feeling when we visit, like going to see an aunt with too many pictures of her nieces and nephews and with good food coming out of her kitchen. There is always plenty to read and look at on the walls - pictures of famous and not so famous customers, letters from well wishers, rave reviews and awards and even political bumper stickers; no need to bring a newspaper.

Your food transcends its basic ingredients with the care and attention to detail that are obvious in even your simplest dishes. Having breakfast at Big Kitchen on the weekends can be quite a wait, which is usually the sign of a good restaurant, although you make your customers feel as comfortable as possible by offering shaded seating and hot coffee (Kona) during the wait. We love coming during the week, though, because we can usually sit down right away.

If for no other reason, every San Diegan should come to Big Kitchen for the Biscuits and Gravy, which are easily the best we’ve had. That is saying a lot, considering one of us is from the Midwest. The biscuits are always light and fluffy and the gravy is spicy, savory, creamy and peppery. The sausage is heavily spiced, not the run of the mill breakfast sausage most diners serve, which gives the gravy a unique flavor with hints of (we think) cumin and chile powder. Even our vegetarian friends can enjoy biscuits and vegetable gravy, a rare option.

Some of our breakfast favorites are the Golden Hill Favorite (spinach, egg and cheese scramble), the Corned Beef Hash and the Huevos Rancheros. Your home fries make each plate special. The potatoes seem more like they have been roasted, perfectly tender on the inside with a crispy exterior. The abundance of fresh herbs and seasoning ensures that every bite is loaded with flavor. Even the whole wheat toast is wonderful. The thick slices of nutty bread taste great covered with your berry preserves. Although most people think of Big Kitchen as a breakfast restaurant, your daily lunch specials ($7.50) prove that it’s just a great place to eat.

Every good cook knows that the kitchen is the heart of a home and Big Kitchen is the heart of this community. You treat everybody like a part of your family, bringing big plates of comforting food made with love.

Yours Very Truly,

San Diego Restaurant Review

Monday, June 1, 2009

Letter to Mama Testa Taqueria




Cesar Gonzalez
Owner
Mama Testa Taqueria
1417 A University Avenue
San Diego, California 92103
Phone: (619) 298-8226

Dear Mr. Gonzalez:

You can’t throw a stone in San Diego without hitting a taco shop. Mama Testa is not a taco shop. It is a taqueria, a Mexican interpretation of the various regional foods from Mexico. It bears no resemblance to what Southern Californians have come to know as “Baja style” food. The first thing we noticed when we walked in was the salsa bar, with at least nine different salsas, almost none of which looked familiar. All of the salsas have a unique, fresh flavor and allow the eater to customize each bite, depending on what salsa is used. They have ranged from fruity to smoky to earthy to tangy. The variety of your traditional regional salsas gives a unique perspective to your food.

Of your Mama Blanditos (soft tacos), we’ve liked the Atasco (three soft corn tortillas filled with homemade chorizo, cilantro, raw white onion and red tomatillo salsa) and the Asi Yasado (three soft corn tortillas filled with grilled chicken, cilantro, raw white onion and green tomatillo salsa). The homemade chorizo in the Atasco was finely chopped and tasted just like we would expect a good Mexican chorizo to taste: slightly spicy with a smoky saltiness. The natural fat that rendered from the sausage was absorbed by the soft corn tortillas and the chopped onion and cilantro gave the tacos a bright flavor that balanced the heavy chorizo. The grilled chicken in the Asi Yasado was chopped yet still juicy and a perfect, simple meat with which to try a variety of salsas.

Of your Mama Duros (hard tacos), we’ve liked the Guaca Tacos (three deep fried corn tortillas filled with avocado, topped with lettuce, sour cream and queso fresco and served with refried beans) and the Empapados (three corn tortillas filled with mashed potatoes, topped with lettuce, sour cream and queso fresco and served with refried beans). The guacamole in the Guaca Tacos was creamy and rich and the crunch of the lettuce and taco shell was everything we would want in a crunchy taco. The Empapados were savory and comforting, not like any other taco we’ve had.

The Muchos Machos (two corn tortillas filled with sliced poblano chiles sautéed with onions and sour cream, served with rice and refried beans) were also good. The heat from the peppers and the sweetness from the onions married beautifully and the sour cream made the taco more decadent while balancing the heat from the chiles. The Luchador ring napkin holders on your tables and tongue-in-cheek names of your dishes show Mama Testa doesn’t take itself too seriously. We are happy that you are showing your customers that Mexico is a big country with many different styles of food that all taste great served in a fresh corn tortilla.

Yours Very Truly,

San Diego Restaurant Review


Friday, May 22, 2009

Letter to Shakespeare Pub & Grille


Owner
Shakespeare Pub & Grille
3701 India Street
San Diego, California 92103

Phone: (619) 299-0230

Dear Sir or Madam:

We’ve spent many pleasant Saturday afternoons at Shakespeare having pints and pub food on your patio. There are few restaurants or bars in San Diego that have nicer outdoor seating areas than yours. The patio is a great place to get some fresh ocean breezes and sunshine while enjoying a proper Imperial Pint.

We’ve enjoyed your appetizers and lunch entrées although we have avoided the dinner menu because we’ve found it pricey for pub food. We have liked the fried Cod portion of your traditional Fish & Chips plate (served with peas on the side). The large piece of Cod is always tender and flaky and the batter is always light and crispy. The chips, however, have almost always been a little soft and soggy. We prefer drier chips with a crispy outside.

The Sausage Rolls (appetizer) are very good. The pastry roll itself is buttery, light and flaky while the pork sausage on the inside is plump, juicy and peppery. They go extremely well with HP Sauce and the Coleman’s hot English mustard served on the side. The Shepherd’s Pie (served with chips and peas) is a solid version of this classic English dish. The Great British Dip (“tender roast beef served on a freshly baked roll with tomatoes, thinly sliced red onion and a side of horseradish and brown gravy”) was quite good. The roast beef was in fact very tender and the brown gravy had a hearty, savory flavor that complemented the sandwich. Our only complaint was that the portion was slightly small. We also enjoyed the Crab Cake Sandwich (served open faced on a toasted bun with lettuce, tomato and mayonnaise and choice of one topping, either mushrooms, grilled onions, blue or cheddar cheese).

There are few places we would rather have a pint than Shakespeare and the fact that your pub food is better than average allows us to enjoy a nice lunch or appetizer as well.

Yours Very Truly,

San Diego Restaurant Review

Sunday, May 17, 2009

Letter to Lefty's Chicago Pizzeria




Brendan and Lauren Hodson
Lefty’s Chicago Pizzeria
3448 30th Street
San Diego, California 92104
Phone: (619) 295-1720

Dear Mr. and Mrs. Hodson:

We have been hunting good Deep Dish pizza in San Diego for years. Finally, we made a trip to North Park last week and had both your great Deep Dish and Thin Crust slices. As soon as we walked in and saw the Chicago memorabilia on the walls and the Chicago specialties on the menu, we knew that Lefty’s was the real deal, not some corporate knock-off. We ordered the Spinach and Mushroom Deep Dish Slice ($3), Sausage Deep Dish Slice ($3), Pepperoni and Sausage Thin Crust Slice ($2) and felt obligated to also order the Italian Beef Sandwich with Giardiniera ($7). We enjoyed everything we ordered and only regretted not having ordered a whole Deep Dish pie, fresh out of the oven.

The Spinach and Mushroom Deep Dish Slice was everything we expected: thick, buttery crust and a wall of cheese holding chunks of tomatoes and toppings. Our favorite part of this slice was the soft, almost candy-sweet tomatoes baked on top. The spinach and mushrooms were cooked into the cheese as well, but obviously were fresh when they went into the oven. The combination of the sweet tomatoes, mild, gooey cheese and crispy butter crust is everything we’ve missed about Chicago style pizza. The Sausage Deep Dish Slice, also with sweet tomatoes, was more traditional and just as good.

Surprisingly, the Pepperoni and Sausage Thin Crust Slice was our favorite. It was the best pizza we’ve had in a very long time and probably the best slice of pizza we’ve had in San Diego. The quality and flavor of your pepperoni and sausage was unusually good and the crust was crisp but not chewy and held the wonderfully greasy cheese, sauce and meat without becoming soggy. The beef on the Italian Beef Sandwich was abundant and tender and the Giardiniera was spicy, savory and gave the sandwich a nice crunch. We didn’t order the bread dipped in “da jus” but the jus flavor in the beef was great, so we will next time.

We prefer to support locally owned restaurants like yours because we get the sense that you really care about the food you are cooking. You have a genuine Midwestern friendliness that is entirely absent from a very popular “New York” style pizzeria not too far from you, whose slices aren’t as good as yours.

Yours Very Truly,

San Diego Restaurant Review

Monday, May 11, 2009

Letter to The Fishery

















Paul Arias, Chef
The Fishery
5040 Cass Street
San Diego, California 92109
Phone: (858) 272-9985

Dear Mr. Arias:

We’ve been to The Fishery many times in the last several years and have always been served great, fresh seafood. Your dining room is simple but elegant, warm and comfortable. Your servers are among the most knowledgeable of any restaurant in San Diego. They are casual and friendly yet professional enough to make us feel like we are having a fine dining experience. The Fishery feels like a neighborhood restaurant even though you serve seafood that rivals any “fancy” seafood eatery in town.

On our last visit, we had an extraordinary meal. We ordered a cup of Clam Chowder ($4), the Steamed Mussels with Linguica, Fennel and Roasted Jalapeno Butter appetizer ($12) and your entrée special: Monkfish over Lobster Succotash ($26). For drinks, we had an Anchor Steam draft ($5) and a bottle of Sea Dog Blueberry Wheat beer ($3). Our drinks came out quickly with a basket of hot sourdough and wheat bread with whipped chive butter. Both breads were very good and we especially liked the whipped chive butter.

Our Clam Chowder came out first, sprinkled with paprika and parsley. The cup was a generous serving of hearty, New England Clam Chowder, with big chunks of tender potato and plenty of clams. The fragrance from the mussels, perfumed with the aromatic fennel and the faint smell of the ocean, foretold the beautiful flavors of the dish. The grilled garlic toast served with the mussels was perfect for dipping into their buttery broth. The plump mussels were tender and mild against the spicy, salty linguica and smoky jalapeno butter. We love mussels and this composition was delicious.

The Monkfish over Lobster Succotash Special was incredible. The Monkfish was so tender it didn’t even require chewing; it literally melted in our mouths. The crispness of the fresh corn and lima beans contrasted the tender Monkfish and Lobster. The heavily herbed cooking liquid of the succotash, combined with the buttery Lobster, created one of the best dishes we’ve ever had, seafood or otherwise.

Yours Very Truly,

San Diego Restaurant Review